I have almost fully upgraded my TRRI to Jerry specs. The process has a trick to it, you CAN"T BURN THE BOARD!!!! if you do, bye bye amp, and good luck fixing it. Go to the leg of the cap or resistor you plan on removing and HEAT THE LEG as close to the cap or resistor as possible. Don't worry about burning the old cap or resistor, its only worth 69 cents and they're not what you want anyway. keep a steady pressure under the cap or res with a plastic or rubber handle screwdriver. put this pressure on the end you're heating up. as it rises pop it out slowly and evenly. you can move it up a little at a time, just watch how hot you're getting it. You don't want to take the copper circle around the hole with it or you have another problem too(that happens if you melt the plastic too much).
I agree P2P amps are easier to solder, but RI's are easier to find the right parts!!! They are laid out neatly and numbered. Following a schematic is easy as pie. But, for all the ease of finding the parts, it is much easier to mess up the entire amp by burning or damaging the lead hole. There is a soldering Iron out there that is cool to the touch, I saw it on a late night infomercial. I wonder if that would be a good invention for this type of soldering. PLUS, through my tweaking adventure, Waldo and I have found that the schematic is not EXACTLY like the original, but very close and without an audible difference. They swap a resistor and a cap in placement here and there.
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