Chat about Equipment Info
 #69249  by Highballin'
 
I just finished up setting up an Acoustic Guitar. Gave it a good cleaning, replaced the 3-on a plate tuning machines, and hand fabricated a new saddle and nut from some micarta blanks.
I've been slowly getting into this. Guys give me their cheapo guitars electric or acoustic and I fix 'em up. I like it alot.
I couldn't believe the results I got from the micarta saddle and nut. Action came out real good, and the intonation is pretty darn close.
Everytime I learn something new. It took me a long time to sand and file those parts down to the right size and shape. I used some needle files I have, and a little coping saw to cut notches in the nut.
I also learned nuts can't be forced out. They have to be slowly heated and loosened up.(old glue)
I got the replacement tuners from a supplier. They were the cheapos, but they replaced some broken cheapos-so that was a win. They fit pretty good right out of the box. Except for one capstan. It was a little snug in the bushing. It turns ok but it has a tight spot. I'm figuring it will work itself in after time.
 #69251  by Mandoborg
 
Highballin, sounds like your on your way !!!

Three on a plate tuners can be a b***h, they have to be drilled perfectly ! The factory keys usually work fine, but replacements can be tricky at times if they don't fit the spacing perfectly. Mandolins are worse because now your dealing with 4 holes per side. Sometimes you can drill the bushing out one size larger. The problem is compunded if one of the shafts is bent even a tine bit.
Keep heat away from the nut, you can melt the fingerboard or headstock binding, if theres any. Heat guns around guitar takes EXTREME caution, last resort kind of thing. The best way to remove a stubborn nut is to score all the way around it with a brand new x-acto blade. Be sure to do the sides of the nut as lots of companies finish right over the edges of the nut. Lay a block of wood, the same width as the nut, right up against it at the first fret and give it a tap, you can actually give it a pretty strong one if you've scored around the nut well. If that doesn't work, take a razor saw and cut the nut in half lenghtwise, all the way through, then with pliers crush the nut, then clean up with files. All it takes is one p.i.t.a nut job for you to realise all it takes is a dab of white elmers glue to hold it in. Then the future repair guy will thank you !!

Have fun, luthrie is a GREAT hobby to get into.....

Jim Combra
 #69253  by Highballin'
 
Thanks Jim. I didn't heat this last nut up to remove it. I chiseled it out. I thought it was kind of messy though. I read that heating it up would help loosen it. But now I'll take your advice. No heat!
Yeah I figured the one capstan was a little bent or off-line. It fit though. The set of machines were only 15 bucks. They are pretty crappy. But the old ones were worse. Broken gear teeth, missing pegs, stripped out mounting screw holes. I used the toothpick/glue method to reset the screw holes-that worked real good.