#126985  by eric
TI4-1009 wrote:I used Lowe's "Tung Oil Finish" on my pine TRM cab, 5-6 coats. It's not a very hard, "protective" type of finish- like poly, but you can just add another coat when you want to. Just remember that the "tung oil" you get at the big box places isn't really pure tung oil, it's mostly solvent that dries off quickly leaving behind a little tung oil. You have to poke around to get the real full-strength tung oil.
This^^^. The "Tung Oil" at big box stores is complete garbage , and not really Tung Oil at all . What you want is Waterlox Original. 1 quart off Amazon will do you . Stuff is about $30 /qt & $120 a gallon and worth every penny. Easiest Pro finish in the world to apply. And can be reapplied antime over the years with no prep , unlike poly , which will yellow and chip and crack and flake over time and just look like shit in general . Waterlox "melts " into each succesive coat, whreas poly build tiny tiny layers . It is waterproof ,super hard as hell when fully cured ( its a wood floor finish as well), and will naturally de-gloss within 6 months for a hand rubbed look . Check out the Woodmans video's on YT Waterlox on Mahogany. Like I said , it's the most user friendly finish in the world . It's idiot proof , and then some. Apply with a disposable foam brush , little to no sanding b/t coats . Bam, 6 coats and you're butter! As for the legs , it's simple ; get mismatched rubber feet for front and back . Get 2 jumbo 1 1/2" or 2" feet for the front , and put 1/2" feet in the rear . Perfect elevation tilt with no fuss. Love my TRM as well , congrats on the score!!
 #127007  by eric
Ya , I thought about using the marine-grade stuff on my next cab .. Stuff is supposed to be indestructible .. Perfect if you are gigging with that thing
 #127329  by TI4-1009
I finally found some Waterlox in a hardware store, but it didn't look like pure tung oil? Container listed the top 5 ingredients and tung oil was second on the list behind some solvent.
 #127332  by eric
Correct. Waterlox isn't "pure tung" . 100% tung oil would take literally years to dry. It uses a solvent system as a carrier and then the solvent quickly evaporates and then it becomes dry (yet not fully cured). It is also mixed with a resin , which provides its own benefits as well. However , the tung oil in WL is superior to anything at the big boxes because of the source of the tung oil is true. Won't chip , flexable and breathes with the wood , becomes food grade safe once the solvent fully evaporates and is cured!! Eat a steak off your cab if you like! Yet , the fumes are just obnoxious , use a proper respirator with plenty of ventilation , but it disappears quickly.
 #127334  by TI4-1009
Can I Waterlox over my Formby's/Lowes "tung oil finish"?