[Urblues]

Fact: les pauls have a 7 egree neck angle for their set neck designs.
Question: Does tiger have a neck angle for its set neck design (originally going to be thru neck) or not?

This will help immensely in my project.

[NorthboundRain]

It depends what kind of bridge you are going to use. Tune-o-Matics sit above the body requiring the extra neck angle, Fender style bridges sit flat on the body and don't require the angle.

Some people recess the tune-o-matic to use it with a straight neck, check out the Warmoth website for more info on that.

[paulinnc]

Fact: les pauls have a 7 egree neck angle for their set neck designs.
Question: Does tiger have a neck angle for its set neck design (originally going to be thru neck) or not?

This will help immensely in my project.

Neck angle is the same thing I am hung up on. But I have found some resources on http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/

This should help too http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index ... opic=30210

[softmachine72]

I use a 2 degree neck angle cut in to the neck through glue up assembly when building the wolf.I make the neck through block the cut 2 degrees w/ the end of the fretboard. then cut 12 degrees off that 2 degrees for the head stock angle. on Tiger/ Rosebud I cut 2.5 degrees in to the neck pocket.I am not sure what the neck angle was on Tiger but, a symptom of not enough neck angle is high action w/ the pickups having to be set a mile high like on tiger.

[Urblues]

Thanks for the info on tiger and wolf, but in a fog of sleep I must have switched my ideas. I originally wanted to know about Wolf. Thanks for your insight, but do you think that you could simplify it?

[paulinnc]

The issue for me is what is the proper angle given the neck that I have and how to find it and cut it without damaging anything. I have a neck through neck that I bought from Soulmate guitars so it is already most of the way complete minus finish and hardware etc. This neck angle thing is the one part of the build process that I have had the hardest time trying to wrap my head around. I understand the routing, gluing and clamping no problem after working in a wood shop for the better part of a year but this part escapes me. But I am sure once I get it figured out and do it, it will be easier from then on.

[tcsned]

The issue for me is what is the proper angle given the neck that I have and how to find it and cut it without damaging anything. I have a neck through neck that I bought from Soulmate guitars so it is already most of the way complete minus finish and hardware etc. This neck angle thing is the one part of the build process that I have had the hardest time trying to wrap my head around. I understand the routing, gluing and clamping no problem after working in a wood shop for the better part of a year but this part escapes me. But I am sure once I get it figured out and do it, it will be easier from then on.

How thick is the block of the body portion? If you're gonna cut an angle into it you'll still need enough thickness for the body after the angle is cut. If it's already at the right thickness you might want to rethink your bridge if you were planning on using a Wolf/Tiger or LP style. If you use a flat mount bridge you can leave everything flat.

[softmachine72]

When i start on a wolf I make a laminate block that is 2.25 wide 41 long and 3.5 in thick (top to bottom). that 2.25 is the final width .The outside maple pieces are actually about .80 , which is .05 in. too thick they should be 3/4 of an inch.Then i use the jointer and thickness sander after glue up to get the final total width of 2.25. Then you make a marks perpendicular to the length of the guitar across the complete laminate block( with a square and pencil )there are 4 perpendicular marks you will make ,One the end of the guitar, the end of the fretboard, the 24th fret, the end of the fretboard +the width of the nut. Then you get you protractor and (I use the Incra model because it marks in degrees and half degrees.)start your 2 degree mark on the side of the block W/ the vertex(or starting point) at the end of the fretboard mark. do this on both sides. Stop the line a few inches beyond the end of fret board mark including the nut width. Next, you draw a 12 degree downward angle line using the end of the nut as the vertex point. This will be the headstock angle. draw that line about 8 inches. Next, draw a line parallel to the headstock line you just drew, making the headstock about 1/2 inch thick.
Next you draw a line parallel to what will be the top of the guitar. It should be 2 inches thisk. You will plane it down, after you attach the wings, to a final body depth of 1.75 in. then make a mark about 1 inch below the nut area. Make a mark about 1.1 inches below the 18th fret area and connect these lines.This will be the back of the neck. Last you draw a diagonal line from the 18th fret to the 2 in.line where the back of the guitar will be. This is that hump area that fits so nicely in the hand. At this point you should have something approaching the pics I added, a complete neck through and body side relief layout. Take it to the band saw and start cutting. After the blank is cut out use a jointer or hand plane to flatten everything properly. then check your work . Remember measure twice cut once. that is the best way I can describe it.
[img]http://s1027.beta.photobucket.com/user/ ... sort=3&o=0[/img][/img]

[Urblues]

Dang

[softmachine72]

I have some photos of a mock up I did for your viewing pleasure at my photo bucket site to make it more easy to understand. I am sill having trouble uploading pics. I did the(Img Img) insert thing but, it does not seem to be working.
http://s1027.beta.photobucket.com/user/ ... 2/library/

[softmachine72]

in reference to the already built neck.If it is complete w\ a fret board on it you will cut the 2 degrees into the body part. starting w/ the vertex at the end of the fretboard drawing a 2 degree down to the end of the guitar body.

[Urblues]

wow thanks, I really appreciate the help.

[softmachine72]

anytime, i hope the photos help. there is one caveat to this. you need to use an original harmonica bridge. Neck angle is actually calculated for the guitar you are building. to be more specific for you guitar. Refer to the drawing i attached to see how to calculate for your situation.Neck angle is very important to the final playability of your guitar. To calculate get a long piece of paper draw a straight line that will represent the top face of the guitar and fretboard. at one end draw a line perpendicular to the body line , that will represent the bridge position. Then draw another perpendicular line for the position of the fingerboard end. then mark the point where the neck and the body join.(on a neck through the point where transition between the neck and body around the 18th fret) then take the height of the bridge and subtract the height of the fretboard + fret height from that number. Take the result from that calculation and mark it above the bridge position. Then take a straight edge and draw a line connecting the bridge height mark you just made and the end of the fretboard mark. make sure you continue the line past the end of fingerboard mark about 7-10 in. The resulting angle (below the body plane mark) is the specific neck angle to the guitar you are building. then cut the resulting angle into the guitar body part in the manor I explained above. Also on the diagram below use (b).
[/img]

[ryanhostetler]

When i start on a wolf I make a laminate block that is 2.25 wide 41 long and 3.5 in thick (top to bottom). that 2.25 is the final width .The outside maple pieces are actually about .80 , which is .05 in. too thick they should be 3/4 of an inch.Then i use the jointer and thickness sander after glue up to get the final total width of 2.25. Then you make a marks perpendicular to the length of the guitar across the complete laminate block( with a square and pencil )there are 4 perpendicular marks you will make ,One the end of the guitar, the end of the fretboard, the 24th fret, the end of the fretboard +the width of the nut. Then you get you protractor and (I use the Incra model because it marks in degrees and half degrees.)start your 2 degree mark on the side of the block W/ the vertex(or starting point) at the end of the fretboard mark. do this on both sides. Stop the line a few inches beyond the end of fret board mark including the nut width. Next, you draw a 12 degree downward angle line using the end of the nut as the vertex point. This will be the headstock angle. draw that line about 8 inches. Next, draw a line parallel to the headstock line you just drew, making the headstock about 1/2 inch thick.
Next you draw a line parallel to what will be the top of the guitar. It should be 2 inches thisk. You will plane it down, after you attach the wings, to a final body depth of 1.75 in. then make a mark about 1 inch below the nut area. Make a mark about 1.1 inches below the 18th fret area and connect these lines.This will be the back of the neck. Last you draw a diagonal line from the 18th fret to the 2 in.line where the back of the guitar will be. This is that hump area that fits so nicely in the hand. At this point you should have something approaching the pics I added, a complete neck through and body side relief layout. Take it to the band saw and start cutting. After the blank is cut out use a jointer or hand plane to flatten everything properly. then check your work . Remember measure twice cut once. that is the best way I can describe it.
[/img]

Thank you greatly for this information!!!!!!

I don't suppose these drawings are still available? If so, they would be of much help to me (although this description helps tremendously).

Much love!

Ryan Hostetler

[Mando_Nate]

When i start on a wolf I make a laminate block that is 2.25 wide 41 long and 3.5 in thick (top to bottom). that 2.25 is the final width .The outside maple pieces are actually about .80 , which is .05 in. too thick they should be 3/4 of an inch.Then i use the jointer and thickness sander after glue up to get the final total width of 2.25. Then you make a marks perpendicular to the length of the guitar across the complete laminate block( with a square and pencil )there are 4 perpendicular marks you will make ,One the end of the guitar, the end of the fretboard, the 24th fret, the end of the fretboard +the width of the nut. Then you get you protractor and (I use the Incra model because it marks in degrees and half degrees.)start your 2 degree mark on the side of the block W/ the vertex(or starting point) at the end of the fretboard mark. do this on both sides. Stop the line a few inches beyond the end of fret board mark including the nut width. Next, you draw a 12 degree downward angle line using the end of the nut as the vertex point. This will be the headstock angle. draw that line about 8 inches. Next, draw a line parallel to the headstock line you just drew, making the headstock about 1/2 inch thick.
Next you draw a line parallel to what will be the top of the guitar. It should be 2 inches thisk. You will plane it down, after you attach the wings, to a final body depth of 1.75 in. then make a mark about 1 inch below the nut area. Make a mark about 1.1 inches below the 18th fret area and connect these lines.This will be the back of the neck. Last you draw a diagonal line from the 18th fret to the 2 in.line where the back of the guitar will be. This is that hump area that fits so nicely in the hand. At this point you should have something approaching the pics I added, a complete neck through and body side relief layout. Take it to the band saw and start cutting. After the blank is cut out use a jointer or hand plane to flatten everything properly. then check your work . Remember measure twice cut once. that is the best way I can describe it.
[/img]

Thank you greatly for this information!!!!!!

I don't suppose these drawings are still available? If so, they would be of much help to me (although this description helps tremendously).

Much love!

Ryan Hostetler

Did you ever get a responce or find and of these drawings/photos?