rukind.com

Grateful Dead Music Forum

A place to talk about the music of the Grateful Dead 

 #115148  by Smolder
 Wed Jun 20, 2012 9:15 am
Hi Scott... I've got mine disassembled and assembled.. all of the construction and assembly parts are worked out. The final pick up measures 6.4 ohm. Is that about right? Most worrisome, I have a very weak volume coming from this pickup. I'm guessing that might be the magnet orientation. They both 'pulled' to the poles... and I've tried reversing the polarity of the leads. Any thoughts, or is it just trial and error with the magnets?
 #115153  by bcresci
 Wed Jun 20, 2012 4:14 pm
Scott - finally got a chance to let it rip tonight. Took down the plexi shield I have protecting the cab (from my little girls who love to beat on the shiny dust cover with their toys) and cranked it up. Sounds really nice - definitely a difference between this and the stock fender. This is a really great solution for anyone who doesn't want to do any routing to make the humbucker fit.

Thanks for the fast, friendly service.

Image
 #115178  by drewfx
 Thu Jun 21, 2012 9:32 am
Smolder wrote:Hi Scott... I've got mine disassembled and assembled.. all of the construction and assembly parts are worked out. The final pick up measures 6.4 ohm. Is that about right? Most worrisome, I have a very weak volume coming from this pickup. I'm guessing that might be the magnet orientation. They both 'pulled' to the poles... and I've tried reversing the polarity of the leads. Any thoughts, or is it just trial and error with the magnets?
I'm thinking it would have to be like a P90, and you'd want the magnets so that they repel each other where they contact the poles. And 'pull' to the poles refers to touching something to the top of the poles (i.e. right under where the string would be).

So you'd orient either both N sides of the magnets to be next to the poles or both S sides, depending on what you need for hum cancellation when combined with the other PU's. So the magnets will repel each other, but the poles themselves will be magnetized correctly.
 #115236  by Smolder
 Sat Jun 23, 2012 8:20 am
magnetic north IN towards the poles. That's what finally worked... finding north with a compass wasn't as easy as I had thought... and that final call (pP90 reference was perfect) and now it's done. The second of the two I made read 6.9 ohm... and that's the one I'm using. Really helps the strat get there in the middle position. Thanks so much for the photos, the resources and the info.
 #115241  by Smolder
 Sat Jun 23, 2012 10:14 am
ScottWalkerGuitars wrote:Nice! 6.9 though? is it s Super 2 your using?


This project will potentially need some fussing with, because of the RW/RP and integrating it with other single coils. Its not a fool proof scenario, but with some swapping the polarity and exchanging leads, you can get it to work.


I used a Super D (DP100) that I picked up on CL for $30. It's not F spaced, but for the money I thought I'd try it. The other half measured 6.4. I did make sure to keep the outer tap positive and the inner tap negative which I read helps with the noise sheilding.
 #116639  by Mosfed
 Sat Jul 28, 2012 8:06 am
I would love to see comparisons between:

these and a super 2 coil split and a SDS-1

Cool idea. Especially if you can take 1 super 2 and make 2 of these. very cool
 #117727  by Mosfed
 Tue Aug 21, 2012 6:08 pm
To people who have tried this. Have you been able to compare how this sounds to a coil split Super 2? I realize it should sound pretty close but...
 #117742  by cmc64
 Tue Aug 21, 2012 8:53 pm
Mosfed wrote:To people who have tried this. Have you been able to compare how this sounds to a coil split Super 2? I realize it should sound pretty close but...
I am going to have a a pair of Super II "single coils" made for my Strat the middle and bridge and put an SDS-1 in the neck position - when I get to it I'll post some samples.
 #123479  by ricepr
 Fri Jan 18, 2013 1:57 pm
ScottWalkerGuitars wrote:Right on! Yeah plus its fun. Im sure Dimarzio will make you an under wound SDS-1, but it won't have the brass plate, which is part of the "Super 2". Im working on posting my Brass plate linework Document, so anyone can print it and use it to make there bottom plate.
Scott
Brass is for shielding? Its magnetically inert aint it?
 #123788  by tatittle
 Fri Jan 25, 2013 6:17 am
Great demo Scott. Much obliged. That tinkering American spirit is still alive judging by the interest!

The brass plate is for tone I believe. Teleaster bridge p'ups have them typically. It gives it a stronger tone with more bass I think--of course they are typically added to p'ups which can lack those qualitites to begin with (so the tone is relative to the p'up w/o the plate)

I have everything I need to begin modifying/assembling my 1st Jerrycaster. I have vintage amps, JBL's, Mutron, etc.; time to finally get a Super 2 at the beginning of the chain. I got a SHH pg from Warmoth and was planning on routing a Strat body for the middle humbucker. I have a maple body by StewMac on the way (used) which I am hoping will have great sustain. Maple was the basewood for Tiger no?
This seperation idea throws yet one more variable into the mix! Reminds me of combining 2 dual ganged pots to obtain a 250/500k mix. I better start with a straight Super 2 w/ split for a baseline...but this option is terrific for those nice bodies we dont want to gouge up! Of which I have a couple. Bodywise I am thinking Alder would be less preferable to Ash or Maple for a Jerryhound--any experience with Alder and Super 2's thru vintage equiptment? The fx loop/Strat jackplate is another hurdle I am sure I can find the answers to from the threads here and the kind folks who have traveled before me.

Only 4.6K wow. Guess the ceramic and plate makes it sound hotter. Plus 10dB boost and buffer helps.