OK, I see what you're saying about the angle of the bottom of the saddle slot. I understand it shouldn't be flat, I'm not clear on whether it should be angled down toward the tailpiece or down toward the neck?TI4-1009 wrote:But note that Irwin/Brower had Tiger's slots pretty deep- go to the Herb Greene photos. Particularly the higher strings are "way down in there", so as long as they're not rubbing or "skimming" that's not a problem in itself.
If the buzzing is there on most or all fingered frets then start with the bridge. If it's only there when fingering some frets then it could be a fret or three rubbing. You can raise the bridge on one or both sides with the adjustment screws, but you can't go up on an individual saddle once it's been cut too deep. If you don't have nut files you can use a set of welding tip cleaners to angle the saddle or nut away from being too flat (here we're talking about the bottom of the slot- the part that the string is resting upon, not the top of the nut or saddle). Cheap, and the set contains about a dozen raspy wires of just the right sizes. Check your local welding supply shop.
The buzz is there faintly (like an overtone) when it's open, and it's pretty intense when I do string bends of a whole step or more along at least seven or eight frets, so I'm thinking it may not be a fret problem.
This fretboard radius is 14 1/2". Tell you the truth, I still don't quite get the process you're describing of setting the strings to the radius of the neck, but it seems like the kind of thing I can find more information on online.
Thank you both very much for all the help. Once I know which way to angle the saddle slot, I'll try out the suggestions (thanks for the tip about welding tip cleaners, by the way), and I'll update on the progress.