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 #123109  by Sparechaynge
 Sat Jan 12, 2013 2:58 pm
Hey all,
I'm currently building a bass, and I would like very much for it to be a six string. I'm having a hard time deciding on a neck, because I want to use a very narrow string spacing. Does anyone have an idea of what the narrowest nut and bridge spacings could be? Schaller makes a bridge that adjusts down to about 3", is that an accurate number or a case of "just because you can, doesn't mean you should"?
 #123128  by Rusty the Scoob
 Sun Jan 13, 2013 8:34 am
Warmoth considers this to be Wide spacing:
Nut width: 2-1/4" (57.2mm)
Width at 24th fret: 3.3" (83.8mm)
String pitch @ the bridge: 21/32" (16.5mm)
Straight 14" (355.60 mm) fingerboard radius
http://www.warmoth.com/Gecko/Gecko6Neck.aspx

They specify this bridge:
We can rout for the Hipshot A bridge though we do not carry it.
3 9/32" string spacing (.656" or 17mm)
Topload or string thru body
Gecko 6 bodies ONLY
So you're probably easily in the right ballpark with that 3" bridge.
 #123137  by Sparechaynge
 Sun Jan 13, 2013 12:04 pm
Thanks Rusty! I was looking at using a Schaller 200 series bridge, it adjusts down to 3.01 inches. Maybe another way to ask this question would be "will six strings (30, 40, 50ish, 65ish, 95, 120) fit on a 5 string neck"? I'd like the nut to be 2" at the maximum, less is better.
 #123538  by zambiland
 Sat Jan 19, 2013 2:34 pm
I'm sure it's been done. Modulus has made some very very narrow 5 and 6 strings. They also use the ABM bridge setup, which basically is a separate bridge piece for each string, so you could use that and arrange the spacing however you want. It's pricey though. Here's a link to Allparts, but I did a search and found a considerably cheaper source.

http://www.allparts.com/BB-3500-010-ABM ... p_639.html
 #123543  by ugly rumor
 Sat Jan 19, 2013 5:05 pm
Keep in mind the pick-up spacing you will be using.
 #123550  by Sparechaynge
 Sat Jan 19, 2013 9:10 pm
Edwin I'd like to use ABM if I can, it seems like a really cool way to go.

Current pickup route width is ~4.5 inches, and I'm going to use something with a bar magnet.

I'm going to try and check out some sixes before I make a decision, it's just really hard to find southpaws.
 #128768  by Sparechaynge
 Thu Jun 06, 2013 1:38 pm
Getting near the end of the parts location phase, soon to start the parts acquisition phase.

I'm considering a Carvin neck, and I would like to get the opinion of some folks here on whether I should go for the Carvin or shell out the extra $20 for a Warmoth?

The Carvin neck is .004" narrower at the heel than the Warmoth, which is what the body is currently routed for.

http://www.carvinguitars.com/catalog/necks/n522

http://www.warmoth.com/pages/CustomBass ... x?style=88

Thanks all!
 #128903  by Rusty the Scoob
 Fri Jun 07, 2013 6:04 am
All things being equal, I'd pay $20 extra for a Warmoth neck over a Carvin neck. Carvins are great bang-for-the-buck instruments but I find Warmoths to be a little more "wow" in general. With the Carvin you're also paying for a nut that you can't use and you don't get to choose your own frets. (the Stainless option with Warmoth is very worth it IMHO, my frets look brand new after 5 years) Add in the fact that the body is routed for the Warmoth heel and it's a total no-brainer in my opinion.
 #128910  by Sparechaynge
 Fri Jun 07, 2013 10:17 am
That's exactly what I was looking for. Carvin had a ebony neck, but if the quality isn't there than that doesn't make much difference. The nut/frets thing did bother me, just wasn't sure it it would be worth it in the end.

Thanks Rusty.