Your string height is basically gated by how far back your string saddles will go.
One quick experiment you could do is... dial your low-E string saddle all the way back towards the tail as far as it will go (making the string as long as possible from nut to saddle).
Now adjust your string height so that the open E note, and E at the 12th fret note, are both "straight-up" on your tuner.
That is the highest action your guitar can achieve while maintaining intonation. It is probably going to be lower than 7/64ths, which has been reported to be Jerry's string height... I'm personally not sure what Jerry's actual string height was.
If you want to go further, once you have the E-string set, do the same thing for your G-string.
Your thickest wound string, and your thickest un-wound string, will have the longest distance from nut to saddle, keeping in mind that Intonation is more important than string height.
Now at least you know what the highest string height your guitar is capable of, while maintaining Intonation.
I would never buy an expensive guitar without first knowing that it can easily attain my preferred string height (high) while maintaining saddle/bridge stability (not slanted on the posts and/or easily bumped out of wack, etc).
I think this is something you have to specify to the builder in advance so they install the bridge in the optimum place for balanced saddle Intonation (not crammed all the way back to the limit of the adjustment) and plenty of room for high action.
One quick experiment you could do is... dial your low-E string saddle all the way back towards the tail as far as it will go (making the string as long as possible from nut to saddle).
Now adjust your string height so that the open E note, and E at the 12th fret note, are both "straight-up" on your tuner.
That is the highest action your guitar can achieve while maintaining intonation. It is probably going to be lower than 7/64ths, which has been reported to be Jerry's string height... I'm personally not sure what Jerry's actual string height was.
If you want to go further, once you have the E-string set, do the same thing for your G-string.
Your thickest wound string, and your thickest un-wound string, will have the longest distance from nut to saddle, keeping in mind that Intonation is more important than string height.
Now at least you know what the highest string height your guitar is capable of, while maintaining Intonation.
I would never buy an expensive guitar without first knowing that it can easily attain my preferred string height (high) while maintaining saddle/bridge stability (not slanted on the posts and/or easily bumped out of wack, etc).
I think this is something you have to specify to the builder in advance so they install the bridge in the optimum place for balanced saddle Intonation (not crammed all the way back to the limit of the adjustment) and plenty of room for high action.
