Neck-through guitars

Postby Chuckles » Fri May 02, 2008 8:01 am

Jon -

Missed your intro thread yesterday... so, a day-late welcome!

Who do you use locally for your tech?

And who did the VERY kind inlay on the headstock?
Seems like I've been here before...

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Postby Emoto » Fri May 02, 2008 8:02 am

Jon S. wrote:I posted a pic of my current Jerrycaster in my intro yesterday but FWIW will repost the pic here as well. It's a bolt on with a Warmoth neck and body.

Image


Beautiful guitar, Jon. Do you happen to know if anyone is making a body like Jerry's Wolf guitar?
Such a long, long time to be gone, and a short time to be there...
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Postby milobender » Fri May 02, 2008 8:10 am

Emoto, you can contact me on the side about building a wolf body...

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Postby waldo041 » Fri May 02, 2008 8:13 am

Jon S. wrote:I posted a pic of my current Jerrycaster in my intro yesterday but FWIW will repost the pic here as well. It's a bolt on with a Warmoth neck and body.

Image


nice and welcome!
here is my warmoth jerry axe! i recently got the gold knobs.
Image


peace,
waldo
"Tone is in the instruments. Technique in the hands. Do what you will." ~ quote from some guy at the TGP forum
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Postby Jon S. » Fri May 02, 2008 8:23 am

Chuckles wrote:Jon -

Missed your intro thread yesterday... so, a day-late welcome!

Who do you use locally for your tech?

And who did the VERY kind inlay on the headstock?

Thanks for the welcome!

My tech for all work on all of my guitars is Phil Jacoby in Baltimore. http://www.philtone.com He is flat out the best tech I've ever worked with. Really, the man's a miracle worker.

Craig Lavin did the headstock inlay. http://www.handcraftinlay.com/ Another consummate pro. Though it was a rare foray for me, by Craig, to reproduce someone else's design (as opposed to doing an original inlay). That's something I expect Craig would be reluctant to repeat.

BTW, my new Jerrycaster will have a bookmatched cocobolo top and back. FYI, the pieces I have ready now to go for my second effort were cut from a rough plank I obtained from these guys who I understand also supply to Alembic, among others. Not cheap but significantly less expensive than, e.g., a Warmoth-supplied top (I paid 1/3 of the cost of a Warmoth-supplied cocobolo top for the pieces for my own top and back though, admittedly, Warmoth's pieces are quite beautiful and with them you know exactly what you're getting - cutting up any plank, however, beautiful on the top, is always a crap shoot). http://www.anexotichardwood.com/

I kept the "pure" laminates for my own new guitar but gave away a stunning set of extra pieces to a bass-builder as thanks for the loan of his thickness sander for building mine. Those pieces had lots of light-colored "sap wood" on 'em that I understand many bass builders go nuts over.

Heck, FWIW, I know the pic is very low resolution - you can't see the wonderful figure hardly at all - but the larger, more orangey of the two planks is the one I bought and cut my top and back from:

Image

Hope this info. helps.
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Postby Jon S. » Fri May 02, 2008 8:27 am

waldo041 wrote:
Jon S. wrote: nice and welcome!
here is my warmoth jerry axe! i recently got the gold knobs.
Image


peace,
waldo

SHWEEET!!!

May I ask what bridge and stoptail you're using and where you got them?
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Postby waldo041 » Fri May 02, 2008 8:31 am

Jon S. wrote:SHWEEET!!!

May I ask what bridge and stoptail you're using and where you got them?



stoptail - www.jackofroses.com
brian is now doing the 2 piece wood and brass like jerry uses. mine is all brass and does just fine.

bridge - gold harmonica bridge www.allparts.com
http://www.allparts.com/store/guitar-br ... roduct.asp

peace,
waldo
"Tone is in the instruments. Technique in the hands. Do what you will." ~ quote from some guy at the TGP forum
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Postby tigerstrat » Fri May 02, 2008 9:27 am

Wolf: NECK-THRU

Tiger: SET NECK

Rosebud: SET NECK

Bolt: NECK-THRU

Companies that mass-produce good quality, reasonably-priced neck-thru guitars include:

Schecter (C-1 Classic)
Carvin
Jackson

The C-1 Classic is one of my two guitars that I perform on. It does have a much more pronounced sustain than my bolt-on Stra, but a mellower attack, and a lower "dirt" threshold. Mine is modded with the Jerry FX loop/EMG JG-2 buffer, but still has the OEM pickup set of: Duncan JB bridge + Duncan Jazz rhythm, w/ 5-way switch to allow running 1 coil from each p/u in parallel or series.
Last edited by tigerstrat on Fri May 02, 2008 9:44 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Jon S. » Fri May 02, 2008 9:29 am

Awesome, valdo! I'm set re: the stoptail, I already have in hand one of Brian Nall's new brass-on-ebony ones, but I was stuck on the bridge. Duh! It never occurred to me to use a simple SG-style bridge. It looks great on your Jerrycaster, it's just what I'm searching for (as I can't handle an authentic Alembic bridge now, pricewise).
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Postby waldo041 » Fri May 02, 2008 9:46 am

Jon S. wrote:Awesome, valdo! I'm set re: the stoptail, I already have in hand one of Brian Nall's new brass-on-ebony ones, but I was stuck on the bridge. Duh! It never occurred to me to use a simple SG-style bridge. It looks great on your Jerrycaster, it's just what I'm searching for (as I can't handle an authentic Alembic bridge now, pricewise).


the german schaller harmonica bridge is what jerry and gibson used. they can be found from time to time on ebay and when new have no string guides/slots on them like the aftermarket ones. anyway, glad i could help!

peace,
waldo
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Postby alcorelectric » Fri May 02, 2008 12:08 pm

I recently picked up an ibanez mc300, mc400 and am waiting on a mc550.
They are absolutely the nicest guitars I have played.
you should give one a try.
They can be had for $450.00 to $1500.00
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Postby Jon S. » Sat May 03, 2008 11:14 am

Those Ibanez's are sweet, for sure.

I have a question to post on the woods for the sandwich neck for my upcoming Jerrycaster #2. I don't prefer maple as the primary wood (though maple + purpleheart or padouk seem to be extremely popular choices) because I'm afraid that combined with my new ebony board the guitar will be too "immediate" and bright.

I had thought of trying a sandwich of mahogany + some other hardwood. But my tech, based on his experience, suggested sapele instead. According to him, while sapele looks and sounds like mahogany, it has a higher modulus resulting in a stiffer, more stable neck with improved sustain.

So now I'm considering, for the beautiful contrast, a 5 layer neck of sapele-maple-sapele-maple-sapele with the sapele pieces being relatively wide and the maple ones relatively thin. Can't find a single example, though, of anyone else ever building a neck with this precise combination. That kinda scares me: I'm not sure if I'm being a genius or a fool! :o

Any thoughts on this combination for the neck (or any other combination, for that matter)?

sapele:
Image

maple:
Image[/img]
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Postby Chuckles » Sat May 03, 2008 8:10 pm

I think the mahogany or similar density wood will give you a more balanced tone and more sustain. There's an excellent rundown on the different qualities of different woods here:

http://www.warmoth.com/guitar/options/o ... ywoods.cfm
Seems like I've been here before...

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Postby ssrythm » Wed May 07, 2008 9:03 pm

go to ebay and type in daion. I have two mark xx's and five total daion guits. this is a very sweet guitar on there now. most of these xx's go for ~780-1k. the one on there now is almost identical to the guit JB played with panic back in 88-91. neck thru=mucho sustain and easy, sweet fret access.
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Postby Jon S. » Thu May 08, 2008 5:35 pm

Thanks for the suggestion. I have reached a decision, though, on my neck for my new Jerrycaster. It will be a 5-piece sandwich set neck. The neck woods will be sapele/white maple/padouk/white maple/sapele. In fact, my luthier has already purchased the woods, we'll be getting started soon.

We also now have all of the body woods in hand. It will be an FSC*-certified Honduran mahogany shell with both the top and bottom having a maple veneer layer (for accent lines) and then cocobolo.

* http://www.fsc.org/en/

To say I'm psyched would be an understatement. If only the inlay was due sooner than 6-8 weeks: how am I going to make it?! :)
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