BJolley wrote:For anyone who is a wiring noob like me, this may be of interest. I asked Steve at Dimarzio for help with a wiring a non-buffered, non-OBEL Tiger-style guitar. This would have a 5-way blade, 1 vol, 2 tones, single in the neck and splitable humbuckers in the mid and bridge controlled by mini switches. Steve promptly provided the attached diagram.
http://us.mg4.mail.yahoo.com/ya/downloa ... hooMailNeo
BJolley wrote:Sorry for the bad link. Try this:
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-s ... 5257_n.jpg
And, yes, I guess it probably is like a Strat with added buckers and switches. Like I said, I'm a wiring novice so I'll take any professional help I can get. In any event, many thanks to Dimarzio for the help.
1dallek1 wrote:There are different ways to do the same thing, I would use separate tone caps instead of bridging the tone pots like that, and if you have the desire you could replace the bridge/neck tone pot with one of the stacked pots, a 250/500 linear i guess. I am using bourns pots and I like the audio taper for everything.
BJolley wrote:1dallek1 wrote:There are different ways to do the same thing, I would use separate tone caps instead of bridging the tone pots like that, and if you have the desire you could replace the bridge/neck tone pot with one of the stacked pots, a 250/500 linear i guess. I am using bourns pots and I like the audio taper for everything.
Thanks for the input. What is the benefit of separate caps vs. bridged pots?
As for the 250/500k, I'll just start with a single 500k pot for the bridge/neck and if unhappy with the sound may try a stacked pot. I've used an SDS-1 with 250k pot before and, frankly, thought it sounded a bit dark. I'd like to see how it sounds with the 500k.
TI4-1009 wrote:You will need a stereo (TRS) jack to send the signal out and back to the effects loop, and a "regular" (mono) jack to send the signal to your amp.
As for the resistors, according to the diagrams Wolf had them and Tiger didn't. The opinion on the other thread was that with good quality switches you wouldn't get popping without resistors. In my Tiger build I used Dimarzio mini-switches and a pretty cheap 5-way (only one that would fit in the depth of the cavity) and I have no popping issues. The resistors would be an easy add in the unlikely event that you had any popping after you were done.
TI4-1009 wrote:I wouldn't get hung up on 12b or 14b terminology, just use Switchcraft mono and stereo jacks. The only issue could be a regular or long thread, depending upon the thickness of wood you have to go through.
The jacks don't have "switches" in them, they just take either a mono (tip + shaft) or stereo (tip+ring+shaft) 1/4" plug.
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