zambiland wrote:Two things I would check. 1 is the speakers. You might not like the tone of those speakers as they break up.
The 2nds is the bias. It sounds like you might have the amp biased a little cold. You get more crossover distortion as the amp gets cranked, which sounds like harshness as the amp breaks up. Bias is not an absolute number but a range where you make tradeoffs for a warmer, louder, punchier tone for tube life. I tend to bias at about 75-80% of static dissipation. It's been a while though, these days I usually just guitar through an SMS Classic into the power amp section of an Eden WTX-500 into a JBL. It's pretty much my dream tone.
As far as extra filter caps, I mean adding some extra capacitance. I added 200mf of caps to my Showman, which basically acts like a reservoir of instant power for transients. Since I played bass through it a lot, it's a great mod for that.
Word up... I really am a huge fan of running this amp with my danelectro (super low output pickups), when it was biased hot with new tubes i could crank it to 7 in a band situation and get the nicest cleanish preamp with power tube crunch thing goin on, or somethin like that. I will get the SMS one day, though I'm just finishing up collecting parts for the alembic mods and I'm loving the options of the preamp out with the post alembic tap mods.
About the filter caps... So instead of 100uf/350V you're using 200uf caps? Does it add a lot of bass? is this a good idea for jerry mods? I was thinking I should do 100uf/450v and increase voltage as much as I could. what about the 22uf (or are they 25uf)- the other caps in the filter cap can? Should I try to increase those in either voltage or capacitance as well. I dont want to change the general voice too much, but waldo's page does mention something about putting the biggest caps you can in there.
You seem to know a lot about these mods... Some guy was telling me that adding a mid range control and a presence control was not as easy as thought. I figured it was just replacing the 6.8k resistor with a pot. Do you have any links with diagrams or schematics? I'm not very skilled with all this yet.
I have some other questions for you about these mods too. Got any opinions on the reverb? Jerry's verb never really sounds like a normal spring verb to me. I know there's stuff in waldos page about the reverb section, but what about a good tank or dwell and tone control additions?
Sorry for all the newb questions- you seem like you have some quality experience. I forgot about this post, regrettably, until now. Thanks for the help!
tigerstrat wrote:I would rethink having the ecc81/12at7 as your 1st gain stage (V2); in my exp it's very important to have a high quality 7025/ecc83/12ax7 in that spot. If you want less gain in V2, try a 5751, not a 12at7. OTOH, I have found that a well-balanced 12ax7 can make a decent PI (V6). Go ahead and pull V1 if Normal channel is unused, and V5 can probably go too.
I got matched 12ax7's from mullard for my phase inverter tube and it sounds GREAT! after retubing and adjusting bias (was in need) and using this balanced PI, the amp is gettin back to it's roots.
But man, Have you ever tried a 12at7 in a loud fender? It's not as much about being able to turn the amp up louder without splitting volumes, but that is nice, considering my affinity for having the power section running hard. it really more than anything makes the amp sound lighter and more airy i guess, it's not as tight and unforgiving, but it doesnt have a lot of sag or anything. It might be because my 12ax7's are mulalrd and tung sol reissues and the 12at7's i have...1 is a really old westinghouse and the other is an old rca.
Think I could be liking the brand or the american factor?
by the by, where's a reliable place to get NOS tubes? I dont have a ton of money, but I think some more options for NOS tubes in my preamp would be grand